![]() This causes darktable to auto apply this for every photo from any fuji camera. To make this the default, just go to exposure, right click and type 1.25 and apply and then save that as a preset and toggle the auto apply and make it apply to any image where the model is %fuji%. But the default 0.5 is definitely not enough. In some case I bump it up as much as 2 EV. So raising the exposure by 1.25 and then letting filmic do the compression gets you a decent starting point for your edits. ![]() Fuji has a lot of detail in the shadows that you want to leverage by compressing the highlights a bit and thus moving the grey point. All you need to do is tell Darktable.īasically the combination of exposure and filmic enabled by scene referred mode in the settings play together to make the histogram make the most of what is there. This is not a bug but a feature: Fuji has awesome dynamic range and most of the detail is where it matters: in the shadows. If you don’t do that, your photos look a bit dark and your whites will not be quite so white (grey). With a Fuji sensor, a value of 1.25EV is better. The default is to increase exposure by 0.5 EV to ‘help’ filmic compress the highlights. However, the defaults for the exposure module are wrong for that because Fuji uses a sensor that is very different from other sensors in the market (xtrans). With scene referred, you get exposure and filmic instead. It’s just wrong at so many levels that it’s not even worth having that as a default. The base curve for Fuji is mostly useless BS. You will definitely want to use the scene referred mode (as opposed to the default & legacy display referred mode). One tip here as a recent Fuji user (X-T30) and long time Darktable user. You can fine tune them to by changing the opacity of the modules mask, perfect for getting things just right. When added to your image they can be very accurate, especially when you can the exposure correct. Using the Colour Lookup Table module, you can instantly choose from a selection of Fujifilm film simulations. Noise and sharpening is handled extremely well, and you’ll always get clean looking images.Īnd then we have the built in colour science. In fact, there are a ton of masking options, something for every conceivable operation you may need to perform.įirstly it handles Fuji raw files with ease, avoiding so called artefact issues that allegedly plague some software. ![]() There are also the parametric masks, which give you instant and full control over the areas you want with the tweak of some sliders (very much like colour or luminosity masks, but more advanced). Being able to curve the gradient line is something so simple, yet missing from every other editing package. Darktable 3.4 has a wealth of options, many more than Lightroom offers for total control over the processing of your images.ĭarktable has some very powerful and unique features for masking, which once used, you’ll wonder how you managed without them. In the editing portion of Darktable you can of course start the process of non-destructive editing. ![]() However you’ll have none of that importing inconvenience of Lightroom, as you can point directly to the directory your images are stored, or even just edit single images very simply. It offers a full library/Lighttable organisation section which allows you to view and tag multiple images, arrange them by various forms of ranking and much more, on a similar way to Lightroom. Think of Darktable as Lightroom, but on steroids. However, things couldn’t be further from the truth, as Darktable isn’t only amazingly powerful, but has a lot of useful features, especially (but not exclusively) for Fujifilm users.īefore we delve into what Darktable offers Fujifilm camera users, you need to know what Darktable offers in the way of it’s general features. Many people would have heard of it, but presume because it is free, it is no good or not suitable. There’s an editing package that stands head and shoulders amongst the paid for and subscription editing package services out there, and it’s called Darktable.
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